For Hannah Shewan Stevens, riding a motorbike through the scenic landscapes of Ha Giang is an exhilarating experience, albeit one fraught with danger, especially for inexperienced riders.
Hannah, a British writer for Insider, visited Vietnam in July to embark on the Ha Giang Loop adventure. As a full-time digital nomad, she constantly seeks new adventures around the globe. The winding roads of Ha Giang offered her a "dangerous yet thrilling journey," where numerous tourists have faced accidents while checking in or exploring perilous areas. Nonetheless, she decided to navigate the Ha Giang Loop on a motorcycle with a companion, without a guide.
“Filled with excitement and anxiety, we started our journey with nothing but a paper map and optimism to guide us,” Hannah recalled.
Hannah's three-day motorcycle adventure spanned 350 kilometers, filled with both frightening and memorable moments, including a collision with an oncoming vehicle while navigating a curve.
Hannah at a scenic spot in Ha Giang. Photo: Hannah Shewan Stevens
The incident occurred on the second day of their trip while Hannah was descending a narrow bend. Prior to the crash, she had been riding on high mountain roads, feeling as though she could touch the sky while passing through the clouds. She vividly remembers the roads being deserted, which led her to underestimate the curve and accidentally collide with a local rider heading in the opposite direction.
“In that moment, there were two options: collide with the other vehicle or jump off my bike to minimize the impact. I chose the latter,” Hannah shared.
The fall caused her knee to hit the ground hard, with the motorcycle pinning her down. In that instant, she thought, “This is it.” After regaining her composure, she managed to get up and immediately apologized to the other rider.
“He just shrugged and rode away as if this was a common occurrence,” the traveler said.
Post-accident, Hannah sustained scrapes on her arms and legs, but the motorcycle remained relatively unscathed. She and her companion quickly disinfected her wounds and headed to the nearest repair shop for a check-up. The minor damage to the bike was fixed for free by a local mechanic. Shaken but undeterred, Hannah remarked that her carelessness led to the unexpected accident and highlighted the dangers of Ha Giang’s curves, urging less experienced riders to reconsider exploring this beautiful region by motorbike to avoid unforeseen risks.
Hannah riding in Ha Giang in July. Photo: Hannah Shewan Stevens
Despite the incident, Hannah’s Ha Giang Loop journey was filled with unforgettable memories. On the first day, she traversed surreal landscapes, stopping at a café to spend an hour soaking in the breathtaking views of Northern Vietnam. She described riding as the sun set as a rather daunting experience, with narrow roads illuminated only by the headlights of passing motorcycles.
On the second day of exploring Ha Giang, the British traveler stumbled upon a large outdoor event, surprisingly discovering it was a local wedding. She and her companion were invited to join the celebration, engaging in cheerful conversations through Google Translate. After this delightful interaction, Hannah continued her ride, “enjoying the lush scenery and the strange tranquility of the remote villages.” Following the curve collision, they soothed their nerves by indulging in a herbal bath at a local spa.
Hannah’s herbal bath experience in Ha Giang. Photo: Hannah Shewan Stevens
On the third day, Hannah rode through the Dong Van Karst Plateau, which she described as even more "daunting" than the accident itself. Every meter she traveled on the rocky cliffs brought to mind the fear of falling. In the late afternoon, she ventured to a waterfall near Du Gia village. In this secluded spot, Hannah and her companion enjoyed a refreshing swim, washing away the dust after a long day. They spent the night in a small guesthouse, sleeping on wooden floors with mats laid out.
As her three-day motorcycle adventure came to an end, she reflected on moments when she felt her life flash before her eyes while riding. However, she has no regrets about choosing these thrilling experiences. Hannah believes this is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure she hopes to relive someday.
“What stays with me after the trip is the freedom of riding through the northern mountains of Vietnam with nothing but an open mind to guide me,” Hannah said.
For those interested in experiencing the stunning Ha Giang Loop for themselves, consider renting a motorbike through Thue Xe Ha Giang.